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Saturday, March 8, 2014

Kyrgyzstan Wins Again

Kyrgyzstan Wins Again

It’s Friday, time to head out of the village for the weekend.  This past week was probably my busiest week of work in Peace Corps.  I’m in the process of working on a grant for a summer health camp and I’m putting the finishing touches on it.  On Fridays my Counterpart and I do a women’s club.  This week we were talking about gender in Kyrgyzstan.  I wake up Friday morning, tired and grumpy, my normal for mornings that begin before 10.  My 4-year-old brother is screaming and crying, also normal.  I head to the club, and we start about 45 minutes late and 7 women showed up.  Things are going well until my counterpart asked the young (25-35) women how many of them had been bride kidnapped.  3 out of 7 of them raised their hands.  Depressing.  Today is women’s day in Kyrgyzstan and I don’t want to go in depth about how messed up gender relations in Kyrgyzstan are but to put it shortly it is bad.  Check this article out by a fellow volunteer who can express much better than I can. http://www.battlecreekenquirer.com/article/20140217/NEWS01/302170020/Britta-Seifert-column-Women-Kyrgyzstan-fight-gender-oppression
 
Nothing Says Happy Women's Day Like Plastic Flowers and Cognac 
Woo Women's Club

After our meeting we have a quick little party at the hospital in honor of women’s day, shots of cognac, and some other tasty treats.  By this time I am ready to head to Bishkek for the weekend.  I’m tired and not looking forward to sitting on a crowded bus so decide I’ll take a taxi it is only 100 som ($2) more expensive and I figure it will be much faster.  A guy drives up who is heading to Bishkek and I agree to go with him.  We just need to wait on one more person.  About 5 minutes later another driver asks if anyone is going to Bishkek but I’ve already told this guy I’ll go with him so I stick with him.  The other guy drives off.  For the next 20-30 minutes no other people come, no buses drive by, and no other people driving to Bishkek come by.  So I keep waiting patiently but my patience is running out.  Finally 2 people who were heading to Balakchy (a town about 40 minutes from my village) get in the car and we leave.  I fall asleep during the 40-minute drive and we get to Balakchy and drop our passengers off.  My driver then drives up to the line of taxis waiting for people to head to Bishkek.  He offers a better price to some people and essentially wins their business from some other drivers.  They did not like this at all.  About 7 guys proceeded to surround our car, one guy tries to force my door open but I slam it shut on him and lock it.  The 2 ladies who decided to come to our car started yelling at the guys telling them to leave and that it is their choice to get in a different car.  They were even threatening to hit the men.  Finally our driver gave the *ssholes 50 som and they left.  I just wanted to sleep and instead Kyrgyz men had to resort to bullying and the threat of violence when faced with a better businessman.  Kyrgyzstan is still working on its transformation to capitalism and the concept of lower prices to gain more business is slow to set in.  Even at the bazars in Kyrgyzstan you can go to 10 vendors that have the exact same product and not a single one of them will offer you any sort of incentive to buy there’s over some one else’s… It’s annoying.  So we finally escape the Balakchy taxi station with 3 new riders two women and an older man.  I give the old man my front seat and get in the back with the ladies.  All I wanted to do was sleep but the back seat was squished and uncomfortable.  The old man was also slightly drunk and very friendly and kept talking the whole time.  About an hour or so into our drive he has the driver pull over near the Kyrgyz-Kazakh border to buy vodka.  We then spend the next 20-30 minutes giving toasts and accolades along with shots for the two women for women’s day.  We proceed to stop and do this two more times before reaching Bishkek.  Fortunately we had a responsible driver and he wasn’t taking part.  When we finally got to Bishkek the old man was getting off first.  He took about 10 minutes to say his goodbyes, and take farewell shots.  On any other day I would just laugh and appreciate the Kyrgyzness of this experience but of course it had to be on the day I am exhausted and just want to get to Bishkek.  By the end of the trip it took almost 2 more hours than the ride would have taken on a bus and cost 100 som more.


I guess looking back the day after I can’t help but laugh at the experience and appreciate the overly friendly drunk old man.  It is also entertaining that almost every time I try and do something quickly or be in a rush in this country it bites me in the butt.  The never-ending quest of going with the flow in this country continues and Kyrgyzstan keeps winning.  The sooner I accept this the better off I’ll be! 

Wednesday, March 5, 2014

Индияга Бардым (I went to India) part 3 Jaipur, Mumbai, and Kerala

Jaipur, Mumbai, and Kerala

We got to our train station in Agra and read that our train was slightly delayed.  Maybe it was an hour or two we forget.  We set up camp and began waiting… and waiting… and waiting.  In the end our train was almost 6 hours late.  We sat miserable in the train station cold, hungry and sick of hearing the food vendor next to us yelling for an hour for people to come eat.  It was one of the lows of the trip.  You can see our excitement in the photo. 
Train Station Misery
Our Train that was supposed to get to Jaipur around midnight got in around 7 am.  We made a plan to meet up around 9 after a short rest and try not to lose the whole day from our extended train station stay.  To no one’s surprise we didn’t get up till around noon.  When we all awoke, tired, sleep deprived, and somewhat sick of India we made our way off to the amber fort.  When we arrived we were blown away by the size of the fort and all of the surroundings.  The fort is situated in the hills around Jaipur and has an elaborate set of walls and smaller fortresses surrounding it.  We spend several hours wandering around the fort.  After the fort we spent sometime walking around the shopping district in the pink city being constantly harassed by shopkeepers who would give us a good price for “their friend”, when in reality they all had the same stuff as their neighbor and nobody gave a better price.  We had planned to do more in Jaipur, but because of our delayed arrival we only had one full day.  The next morning we headed to one of my favorite places of the trip.  The monkey temple. If it has another name I don’t know it.  We took our tuk tuk out to the temple, bought some peanuts and spent the next hour feeding monkeys.  Along the way we met this one hindu man who reminded me of a dread headed hippy you may find living on the beach.  He just smiled and was as happy as he could be.  After enjoying our morning of monkey business it was off to Mumbai, only a 24-hour train ride away.




Drake walking Stoically from the Amber Fort
Our Tour Guide at the Amber Fort
Monkey Fist Bump


Monkey with a Peanut
You do not want to mess with him!
Jaipur as seen from the Monkey Temple
We were terrified to get back on a train after our last experience but this one turned out to be much better.  Yes it was longer but fortunately Jaipur had some of the cheapest beverages we could find in India so we bought a bottle of two of cheap Indian whiskey to help us along.  The train was much more comfortable than expected, despite the screams of the train vendors every 5 minutes selling something.  The chai masala on the trains was amazing though and costs maybe 10 cents a cup.  Before boarding the train we stocked up on food from KFC.  It was an amazing choice.  Kyrgyzstan offers no international fast food chains and being Americans we took advantage of Dominos, McDonalds, Starbucks, Subway, and KFC during our 2 weeks in India.  This train also ended up being delayed by an hour or two because of a train fire that occurred on a different train.  We arrived to Mumbai and headed to our hotel.  We found a nice little place in the center of the touristy area so walking everywhere was easy.  Mumbai was a nice change.  It is a bit more built up, and offered more modern amenities.  If we were coming from America we wouldn’t have cared but we weren’t, we were coming from Kyrgyzstan.  We went to the beach, checked out the gate of India, and at one point even went to Starbucks.  Our first night there we also splurged and found a nice rooftop restaurant way out of our Peace Corps budget but scraped up the change to buy one overpriced drink as we watched the sun set over the ocean. It was a success.  We met back up with Kara’s friend and we all headed to Elephanta Island.  We relaxed on a 1-hour ferry ride out to the island.  The island contains a series of old Hindu temples built into caves on the Island.  The Island contains numerous large sculpted images of Shiva, a Hindu god, within the caves.  We also couldn’t resist stopping by the Taj hotel in Mumbai.  The hotel is gorgeous and there were no obvious traces from the horrendous terrorist attacks that took place there in 2008.  Mumbai was a very nice city and the only touristy city we visited that I’d have any interest in visiting again.  After Mumbai we said bye to Becca who left us to travel with an old friend from India for a few days. The rest of us headed to the train station for our 2nd 24 hour plus train ride.  We were leaving from a train station about an hour outside of Mumbai to save on costs.  This train station was sketchy.  I studied abroad in Ethiopia, I live in Kyrgyzstan, it is hard for me to feel uncomfortable or out of place but this train station made me feel that way.  We received a lot of unwelcomed looks, people were sleeping on the ground all over the train station in the middle of the day, and there were cops roaming around with assault rifles.  It was odd.  We were even told we should leave the waiting area where we were because it wasn’t safe.  No incidents happened and we uneventfully got on our train headed south. 
Gate of India

Mumbai is Classy
Oh the Irony
Elephanta Caves
Not long after we got on the train I started feeling funny.  I was tired, sore, and just wanted to sleep.  This is what I did.  I passed out around 7 pm and slept through the night until a rumble in my stomach woke me up.  To put it as not graphic as possible I spent the next 48 hours having to use the bathroom on an hourly basis.  It was horrible.  I was heartbroken.  I was looking forward to this part more than any other for all of the fresh seafood I planned on eating.  I still had a decent amount but not nearly enough to make up for the food I have to eat in Kyrgyzstan.  On the bright side, it was hot, humid and reminded me of home.  We spent 2 full days at the beach getting pummeled by the waves and enjoyed the first bit of peace and quiet we’ve had since being in India.  The hostel Kara and I stayed at was modeled after a traditional Keralan house, the staff and food there was amazing.  I highly recommend it if you ever go to the area, heritage haven www.theheritagehaven.com.  My only complaint was it was during their local thanksgiving type celebration.  This meant fireworks and really loud music coming from the church a block or two away through out the night.  The other nights we stayed with the rest of the group a little farther from the beach.  On our third day we decided to take a backwater tour.  I was hoping to get to paddle ourselves around but instead we ended up sitting on a canoe while our guide did all the work.  It was a neat experience seeing how all of the people live along the canals washing their laundry, and making a living from the water.  We also got more delicious food on the tour served up on a banana leaf, and my body was back to normal so I ate a lot.  We spent our last day in Kochi the capital of Kerala taking care of last minute souvenir shopping.  Thanks to my awesome parents we even got a real hotel for the last night that had a pool, free room service, mocktails, and airport shuttle service.  It was a great way to end our trip and relax for the coming madness that was travelling back to Kyrgyzstan. 
Hanging out in the Ocean

Delicious food on a leaf

Taste like home

The Crew at the Beach
Crusin' the Backwaters
We woke up at 4 or 5 am to head to the airport.  We get there plenty early enough but because of the idiocracy of Indian airport security we just barely made it on our flight in time.  Our first hurdle was they do not let you in the airport without proof that you have a flight.  They do not even let you go to the ticket counter where you would check in for your flight, so if you didn’t print something before hand you are in a pickle.  The Indian airports also make you receive a tag for your carry on luggage showing that it has been scanned.  However they didn’t tell us this and they forgot to give us ours so we ended up scrambling around to find some or they would not let us on the plane with out carry ons.  You would think they would be competent enough to know that if you are on the other side of security your bag would have been checked and by finding a stupid tag that you could get on the other side of security is preventing nothing.  We took off from the south and headed to Delhi to catch our flight back to Kg.  We get there with maybe an hour or an hour and a half to spare.  We first had to travel a mere 3 to 4 km from the domestic terminal to the international terminal.  After haggling with the stupid taxi drivers and doing our best to not get ripped off by them for a super short drive and making sure we caught our flight on time, we got the international terminal.  We proceed to the airport entrance and they don’t let 5 of us in.  We don’t have proof of our flights…  Fortunately Kara was prepared and was the only person in our group to have one.  They allowed her in and she had to track down an airastana staff who then had to track down our flight list, bring the flight list to the security guard at the door, and he then had to find every one of our names and quadruple check our passports and the list before letting us through.  We make it through.  We are now down to about 30 minutes and are facing a long security line.  At this point there was nothing else we could do.  Our hope was they just wouldn’t leave without 6 people because we were going to be late.  Becca got questioned for having a 1 Liter bottle of juice in her carry on which didn’t help us move any faster.  Finally on the other side of security we here a lady asking if anyone is flying on our flight and we all yell, “we are” and begin our mad dash through the airport.  Our gate was literally the second furthest away from the security checkpoint. We ran for about 8 minutes until reaching our gate sweaty and out of breath.  We made it!!!  We sat down and the amazing flight attendants even brought us water after seeing our sweaty red faces.  Thinking we would for sure be the last ones on the flight, to our amazement we weren’t and we sat there for almost another 30 minutes waiting for other late people.  The last leg of the flight was uneventful until we were landing in a snowstorm.  We took off the morning from Southern India and 80 degree weather and landed in a mild snowstorm.  That’s Kyrgyzstan for you! 
We went out in style, Thanks mom and dad!
My big takeaways from the trip

-India is very very big, almost 3 days on trains and we barely saw anything
-You will get harassed in India
-Trains are great when they work properly and are the worst thing ever when they don’t
-Don’t go to big cities in India if you want to relax
-Fly Airastana if you are ever in central Asia
-Indian airports are the worst ever
-The Taj Mahal is overrated and the Monkey temple is underrated.

-You will get sick

Monday, February 3, 2014

Индияга Бардым (I went to India) part 2 Delhi and Agra

Delhi and Agra

After our hectic ride across the city to our hostel, we exchanged some money and hit the town.  We got in around 2pm so we had some time to kill.  First order of business food!!!  We’ve been eating Kyrgyz food for the past 8 months and it is not the best… Truthfully probably the worst food out of the countries I’ve been too.  We were all stoked to get to India and largely just for the food.  We found some random restaurant and were blown away.  We had low expectations going in.  The first day we met up with one of Kara’s friend’s from back home who is now working in Mumbai and one of her local friends.  We spend the day visiting a couple of temples and taking it easy.  That night we headed to one of the nicer parts of town and had some rooftop drinks and enjoyed our first night out of Kyrgyzstan.  The stomach problems began the next morning.  2 out of the 6 of us were not feeling up to par the next morning.  Becca headed off on her own to explore, she had quite the list of things to see and do and the rest of us were not feeling up to that level of dedication on day 1.  Drake, David and I headed out to see the fort and whatever else the day had in store for us. 
The Delhi traffic... it just don't make no sense
 
The crew at a Hindu temple
Turned out the day had a lot in store for us.  Unfortunately it is very hard to ask someone for directions and get an honest helpful answer in Delhi.  We were attempting to walk a little ways to our destination and upon asking for some clarifying directions someone says follow me I will take you to a place and they can help you.  He lured us in with his personality.  We ended up following him 10 minutes to some tourist center that just wanted to sell us stuff. When we finally procured a map and figured out where we were he had taken us the complete opposite direction of where we were trying to go…  After we headed to the metro station and got to the closest stop near the fort.  When we first stepped on to the metro something was strange… it was all women.  3 ignorant American guys stepped into the ladies only car of the metro.  We quickly realized our mistake and went to the more crowed general seating area.
Running around in the Delhi Traffic

We got off at our stopped and were quickly swarmed by numerous bike wielding rickshaw drivers.  Our first order of business was finding David a belt.  We found a bazaar area and a belt, the whole time being followed by a fellow I’ll call Rick for now on.  Rick originally told us we wouldn’t even find belts here, we showed him.  After Ricks pursuit of us and following us for probably 20 minutes we finally agreed to let him pedal us around but made it very clear we would pay 30 rupees and no more. He agreed and we headed off to the fort.  Being the smallest out of the 3 I got the please of sitting on the back of the bike cart thing, and to say the least me getting onto the back was not my smoothest move.  At one point I attempted to climb over the front and slide down in which gave everyone on the street watching this white kid try and sit on bike cart a good laugh.  One guy even came up to me and simply says, “You are awesome.”  I like to pretend it was not entirely sarcastic but I know better.  So Rick takes us through some sketchy alleys, busy streets and maneuvering through traffic on his little bike to the red fort.  He tells us, he will wait for us no problem, take your time.  In my mind I am thinking well we are going to have to pay more, but we never talked more about it.  We explored the fort and he then took us to a mosque.  After this we made a stop by McDonalds and then it was time to head back to meet up with our group so we could catch our next train.  We asked Rick to take us straight to the metro station and nowhere else. During this time he was asking how he did all day, and if we enjoyed our time, he was setting up the price negotiation.  During this time he also took it upon himself to take us the wrong way to his friend’s scarf shop.  We explicitly told him not to take us but he did anyways.  Now it got awkward.  He stopped at the shop and told us to go look, we said No, and told him to go now.  He kept trying to get us to go look.  We were pretty annoyed at this point and he was too so it was mutual.  When he finally left he took us to the metro station.  We had now been with Rick for almost 4 hours and not once after saying we’d pay him 30 rupees talked about the price.  This was set up to be a mess.  When we stopped there was tension in the air.  We initially offered a small amount more, and he said no way.  We then asked him what he would charge us, and he mention 200 a piece.  We laughed in his face.  For that price we could have gotten a taxi to drive around all day.  We told him we’d give him 100.  He was not happy, he talked with some other biker guys around him and not one of them came to his defense or said anything to us.  We paid him and left.  In retrospect we should have paid the guy a little more.  It was both of our faults for not talking about during the day, and it was pretty lame for him to take us out of the way to places when we explicitly told him we were running late and needed to get back.  After feeling kind of bad about ourselves we got back to the hostel and met up with everyone.
Rick...

Off to Agra.

We head over to the train station and with no problem find our train and it was even on time.  After a 3-4 hour ride we got to Agra.  It was pretty late when we got in and we headed straight to our hotel for the night.  Our hotel was in a great location within walking distance of the Taj.  Our friends had all recommend that we get up early and go see the Taj at sunrise before it gets real busy.  Sounded great and a couple of people we met at our hotel had the same idea.  We got way too early the next morning and headed out.  Turns out the entrance we stayed really close to did not sell tickets and you had to walk 15 minutes in the opposite direction so we headed to another entrance all together.  We got through the security and were off to see a wonder of the world!  Except we couldn’t see it…  The mixture of fog and pollution meant we had zero visibility when we first arrived.  It was a bust.  It was very quiet, peaceful, and not crowded when we got there so that part was a success.  We took our time and checked out some military museum and some other museum with old pictures of the Taj.  We were trying to kill time so the fog would clear up a little bit.  Fortunately it did clear up a good little bit.  We got our stereotypical pictures with the Taj Mahal then headed out for some breakfast. 
There it is!
Kara and I on the Princess Diana bench, the Taj is in the background!
The Crew in front of the Taj, you can even see it now!
We found this guy in the airport, he made the rounds.
After the Taj we headed to Agra Fort.  Agra Fort was huge and very impressive.  The red sandstone contrasted with other rooms of white marble was truly incredible.  I hate to say it but the Taj was quite a disappointment.  I think we all thought Agra Fort was just as neat if not better than the Taj.  We spend about an hour or so running around the fort, the guys started taking pictures large groups of locals, we all had a small photo shoot in one of the crumbling areas of the fort.  After the fort we had time to kill and nothing to do.  By default we found a bar on a roof with a view of the Taj being blocked by some other bigger building… Either way it was very relaxing and we got to watch the monkey frolicking around causing trouble.  One stole some person’s clothes and through them off their roof, another snuck up on some woman that appeared to be praying until she started yelling at it and chucking her flip-flops at it, and others were just target practice for the kids throwing rocks at them.  It seems like it would be fun to live around monkeys, but after witnessing it forget it, squirrels are bad enough. 






Overall Agra was a success even with the Fog Mahal and my first minor round of stomach problems.
Agra Fort
Agra Fort
Agra Fort photo shoot
Posing with the locals
In part 3 this success will end, we will visit Jaipur and then head to Mumbai!