The contents of this website are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. government or the Peace Corps.

Sunday, June 30, 2013

Sheep, It's What's For Dinner

We've been at our permanent sites for almost 3 weeks now and a lot has
happened.  Despite my large amount of free time I've neglected doing
too much journaling or blogging.  I'll try to do my best and go in
order of what has gone on over the past few weeks but I'm sure I'll
forget something.

My first week was really rough at site.  I spent way too much time
sitting in my room, dwelling upon things, and feeling kind of down on
myself.  I finally mustered up the energy to get outside and explore
and start running which has been great and helped me out a lot.  I
went on a picnic with my counterpart and a lot of our co-wokers my
first weekend at site.  I arrived at 8 am at the hospital where I work
because I was told to meet at that time.  Amateur mistake, we didn't
leave till a little after 9.  We headed to Balakchy, then proceeded to
go shopping in the bazaar for our picnic supplies.  After that
we went to a cafe to eat which was confusing to me since we just
bought a ton of food, but I've learned if I try to make sense of a lot
of things here I just end up frustrating myself.  After the cafe we
drove out to some gorgeous area along a river and then proceeded to a
security checkpoint.  I was confused at where we were going or what we
were doing.  After passing through security I found myself starring at
a huge rush of water coming out of a dam.  It was very unexpected but
really cool.  There was a militsia guy in his full cammo and a nice
sized machine gun guarding the dam.  After taking pictures and getting
sprayed with mist we left and went to where we were actually having our
picnic.  We chai eeched, ate some bread and fruit, had some shots of
vodka and hung out.  We were right next a river and all around people
were at jailo with their yurts set up, making kymys, and vacationing
Kyrgyz style.  I was exhausted so I laid down in the car for a nice
nap.  I was then abruptly awaken by my counterpart for what reason? Of
course there was a cow floating down the river and I had to see it.
At this point I stayed up and started wishing to be home, I was
exhausted and can only handle so much Kyrgyzstan in one day.  We
finally ate dinner at our picnic and got home around 8 pm.  Being with
a bunch of middle aged Kyrgyz women for 12 hours in one day with no
break is beyond exhausting!
A dam thing
My counter part in the middle, co-workers, and out driver.

The cow on its way out of the water.
The following week things started to become more normal.  I'd go into
work at 9am and shadow my counterpart and attempt to talk with her and
her patients.  From 10 till 12 I'd work on language with my tutor
Gulzada.  It's nice to have 1 on 1 time to work on language, but her
English is not that great, so at times it is very challenging to get my
point across or figure out what I'm trying to ask.  It was a rough
week though.  I was really struggling with feeling lonely and confined
myself to my room.  It was hard to find motivation to do much else.
In my old village I'd go out and play and talk with the kids, help my
family out with chores, or go play some volleyball or soccer.  Now i
was being a sloth and sitting in my room.  NOT GOOD.  I finally was
ready to get out and do something but then we had 2 cold rainy days.
One day it got really cold, really close to freezing and we even got a
little snow in the hills to the South of my village.  About an hour
away some other volunteers got snow from the storm.  The next day I
was being a bum and finally was sick of it.  It was cold and grey out
but I had to get out and do something.  I threw on some long
underwear, grabbed a beanie, my go pro, and headed towards the hills.
I started running and kept going.  I saw some snow up on the hills and
decided that's what I was going for.  After about an hour and a half
of jogging and walking I found snow.  It only made sense to me to make
a little snowman.  After that I headed back down because more clouds
and weather were moving in and the temperature was dropping.  On my
way back my site mate called me because he was at my house.  I felt
bad because I wasn't there and even though he was only 4 km down the
road I had yet to see him for more than 5 minutes.  He ended up having
an interesting day and more interesting evening.  He got in a car
wreck later that day due to his counterpart being irresponsible.  As a
result he had to get a site change which is great for him, but now I'm
even more alone, 45 minutes and an 80 som mushrutka ride from the next
closest volunteer.  At this point I was feeling really down and
lonely.
A snowman in June.
















The weather finally improved and I got outside exploring and running
more often which has been great.  It keeps my mind clear and gives me
a chance to do something for myself.  I can't help but find it weird
that getting outside and exploring the hills on my own for 4 or 5
hours helps me not feel lonely and isolated yet when I do that I'm
further away from anybody and do not see any one for hours!  I was
very ready for the weekend once it arrived.  I hopped on the Mushrutka
early in the morning and headed towards Karakol.  From my village it's
about a 4 hour ride to Karakol, and the whole drive is absolutely
gorgeous.  It was so nice to arrive in Karakol and finally see other
Americans and be able to think and speak in English!  That night we
all hung out at a volunteer's apartment and had taco night and took it
easy.  The Tacos were amazing.
Tacos in Kyrgyzstan!
The next day I went to another volunteers house for lunch with our 
friends and her Kyrgyz family. The hospitality of Kyrgyz people is
 amazing and they are so caring. Just the thought of inviting a bunch
 of strangers into your house to eat and talk is so foreign and weird at
 home in the states... it's sad.  Even hitchhiking here is perfectly normal 
and fine.  You can flag down any random car and pay them a little bit to
 bring you an hour or 4 down the road depending on where you are
 headed.  Along the way you'll talk with them and essentially become friends.  
Later that night we ended up going to a bar and having some drinks and catching
up with each other about all of our adventures and stories so far.
When Sunday rolled around I was not ready to go home.
The Village health committee doing hand washing demonstrations
That's past week did not disappoint as far as keeping life exciting.
On Monday things at work finally started looking up.  I got to meet
with the health committee.  Their job is to produce and distribute
educational material and do health trainings in the village.  I will
end up doing a good bit of work with them if not all of my work.  They
even go around door to door i the village doing trainings and checking
on health conditions.  I got to go around with them on Friday to talk
about hand washing.  It was an enlightening experience, mainly to be
welcomed into a bunch of strangers homes and as Kyrgyz hospitality
goes be practically forced to eat some bread and drink some tea or
other Kyrgyz beverage at every house we went to.  I'm excited to start
working on such projects when September rolls around.  On Tuesday my
brother's daughter was born!  This made for a very interesting day.
It started off with our neighbor coming over and bringing a bottle of
vodka which my mom, my self, and a couple of other neighbors split.
We even had some Kymyz (fermented horse milk) to go along with it.
After that we ended up going to the hospital to visit my sis-in-law
and the baby.  After the visit we stopped at a magazine (convenience
store) and bought a big bottle of beer.  We all split that back in the
car sitting out front of the hospital.  Oh Kyrgyzstan!  Once we got
back home my brother and I went out to meet up with his friends at the
billiards hall.  After playing billiards for an hour we headed to his
friend's house to grill some shashlek (shish kabob) and continue the
celebration.  We got home around 3 am and fortunately I didn't have to
go to work the next day.
My newborn Kyrgyz niece, Syakal
 I also finally hiked all the way to the lake
this week.  It was a beautiful hike and when I got to the beach I was
the only one there (there is nothing around so no one goes to this
part of the beach) and I had my own little slice of Kyrgyz paradise
for the afternoon.  The water is still a bit chilly but as it warms up
I definitely plan on heading out there more often. 

My own slice of Kyrgyz paradise
 Today (Saturday) was also very interesting.  I went to my friend's place on Friday to
hangout and was planning not to come home until Sunday, but they got
sick this morning so I headed back to my village just in time to
witness my first sheep slaughtering.  It was both fascinating and
disturbing.  Before the slaughter we all say a prayer and then the
women leave and the men slaughter (or watch) and butcher the sheep.
It's a very quick and efficient process and nothing goes to waste.
All of the organs are cleaned and used.  All of the meat is eaten.
The head and feet are blowtorched and also eaten.  No part of the
animal goes to waste.  The hide will be sold or used.  Every organ is
eaten and every bit of fat and meat is eaten.  I tried some tongue,
brain and eye tonight at dinner. The eye was surprising tasty, the
tongue had a little bit of an irony organ taste to it, and the brain
was disgusting.  It had the weirdest mushy slimy texture and taste
downright nasty.  Intestines do taste worse in my opinion though.
Overall it has been a good week full of excitement and new
experiences.  This upcoming week I'll only be at site for 2 days then
most of the volunteers are converging in Bishkek to have a good old
fashioned 4th of July party that we are making last all week.
It's not pretty, but you have to eat.

Cleaning out the organs
I'm not sure why, but you blow torch the head and feet.  It's a nasty smell...
My Apa cleaning and preparing the organs
Dinner!

Yum brains in a bowl


Things are definitely still very challenging here, and the loneliness
is difficult, but as everything else has been looking up that too has
not been as challenging.  July is looking up to be a fun month with 
4th of July, my Birthday, I'm working a girls camp, and then going on a 4 day
backpacking trip near Karakol with a few other volunteers. 

Saturday, June 29, 2013

Things Have Gotten Really Real Really Fast.

Saying bye to our Apa's
Three days ago I officially became a member of the 21st group of Peace
Corps volunteers in The Kyrgyz Republic!  What this means is we are
now on our own to learn the language, come up with work plans, be
isolated from other Americans, and have the real Peace Corps
experience!  So far it’s been very difficult and very rewarding.  Saying bye
to my PST family was difficult, they have been so amazing and I wish I
could spend my 2 years with them, but that is not an option.  After
swearing in we all said our good byes and loaded up into our
respective means of transportation.  Some lucky folks got to travel in
groups on lager buses and others like myself were on their own with
their new host mother and counterpart.  We loaded up into out taxi and
after negotiating prices and deciding it was too expensive we had him
drive us to get another taxi.  Along the way we stopped at the bazar
so my Mom and Counterpart could so some shopping while I waited in the
sweltering heat with the taxi driver.  Speaking Kyrgyz while awake and
alert is hard enough, but trying to speak while tired, hot, and hungry
is just a pain.  The taxi driver kept trying to make conversation but
I was just not feeling it!  After about 20 minutes they arrived and we
finally made our way to our taxi that would take us to Kara-Koo,
Issyk-Kul.  The taxi driver’s 7-year-old daughter was also riding with
us.  The first thing I did was pass out!  A few hours later I woke up
to a beautiful mountain seen and it was raining and had finally cooled
off.  I stayed awake and tried to talk with the Taxi driver’s daughter
the rest of the time.  When we got to my new home we all came inside
to Chai eech (drink tea and eat bread).  The taxi driver’s daughter
had gotten some motion sickness and out of nowhere threw up all over
the table just barely missing my lap too.  At this point I was over it
and went into my new room threw myself into my bed and thought what
 have I just gotten myself into?!

Parting ways with our PST village  :(
Since then things have improved.  My counterpart and her family are
amazing, smart and very involved members of the community.  Her
husband is the director of the hospital where I’ll be working and she
is one of the head doctors.  Their oldest son is studying history at a
University in Bishkek, their other son is starting university next
year to become a doctor and they also have a 14-year-old daughter.  My
new family is very nice but so different from my PST family.  My mom
is about 60 and we live with her son and his wife who is about 2 weeks
due with a baby girl, and their 4-year-old son who is a little terror.
 My new village is beautiful; I’m in a valley surrounded by smaller
mountains that separate me from the lake and to the South a much
larger mountain range.  There are lots of trees and green that my old
village was greatly lacking in.  Everyone I have met in the village
has been very nice, and my brother takes me to hang out with all of
his friends for better or for worse.  I have a feeling lots of fun
stories will come from that group of people.  Today they brought me
along for my first public bathing experience in Kyrgyzstan.  It was at
a banya (a Kyrgyz bath house) right on the shore of Issyk-Kul (the large
lake which I live next to) that is fed by a geo-thermal spring.  While
most of everything in my new village is great it is very lonely.  I’ve
got to work more on language and getting outside talking with the
locals more because sitting in my room by myself will drive me crazy.
I believe on Sunday I’ll be going to a picnic somewhere with my
counterpart and co-workers.  I usually don’t know exactly what is
going on because of the language barrier, but have learned to just go
with and expect the unexpected!


Our Swearing in Ceremony


I’ve begun to realize very quickly how much more difficult this
experience will be than I expected.  Pre-Service training made me way
to comfortable with slacking off on language, and being used to always
having people at my side when I was having a rough day.  Now it’s time
to survive on my own!
I at least have this to play in during summer!